Summer & Winter, Dukagang-Fashion Fabric

After I finished the Summer & Winter Table Runner, I decided to weave something that would look very different but make use of the threading that was already on the loom by tying on a new warp.  The same threading for a traditional type of S&W can be used to weave in Dukagang-fashion, as in the Scandinavian inlay weave.  There’s an excellent chapter on the many S&W weaves, including Dukagang, in A Weaver’s Book of 8-Shaft Patterns, edited by Carol Strickler, Chapter 15.

Below are images and weaving drafts of the finished woven fabric with some additional notes.  I plan to make a pillow from this fabric and I wove part of it in plain weave to use for the back of the pillow.

Summer & Winter, Dukagang-Fashion Fabric

Summer & Winter, Dukagang-Fashion Fabric

Summer & Winter, Dukagang-Fashion Fabric (with detail)

Summer & Winter, Dukagang-Fashion Fabric (with detail)

Summer & Winter, Dukagang-Fashion (Draft 1)

Summer & Winter, Dukagang-Fashion (Draft 1)

Summer & Winter, Dukagang-Fashion (draft 2)

Summer & Winter, Dukagang-Fashion (draft 2)

Summer & Winter, Dukagang-Fashion (Weaving Notes)

Summer & Winter, Dukagang-Fashion (Weaving Notes)

Additional Notes

The sett is 36 e.p.i. and 30 p.p.i. (the plain weave yardage); 5 colors of 20/2 cotton each wound in a separate warp and “mixed” by eye when tying on to the old warp so one color sort of blends into the next; 20/2 cotton for the plain weave weft and 5/2 pearl cotton for the pattern weft.  The fabric was finished by washing by hand and ironing while still slightly damp.  Overall shrinkage is about 8%.

It’s a bit narrower than the Table Runner because I removed the side warp ends that were used for the border and the pattern threads were on shaft #3.  However, the weaving drafts above do incorporate shaft #3 because I think it would look better this way even though I wove the fabric without it since I was tying on to the old warp.  The difference is hardly noticeable.

In the threading and treadling chart you can see that treadling Dukagang-fashion is different in that only one of the tie-down (plain weave) shafts is lifted for all the pattern weft shots while the other shaft is always down.  This way the pattern wefts produce the vertical columns.  It looks best if each treadling block is repeated at least twice.

When this type of weave is woven on a treadle loom with many shafts tied to one treadle it’s difficult to weave without some kind of device that assists in the lifting.  I weave only short yardages and do the best I can with the tie-up to make it as easy as possible to lift when I do this type of weaving on my Macomber.

Please contact me if you’d like me to send you the wif file for this design.

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6 Comments on “Summer & Winter, Dukagang-Fashion Fabric”

  1. buyathread Says:

    Eva, You’re putting a welcome new spin on some traditional weave structures that I haven’t paid any attention to until now. Lovely design(s)!

    Fern

    • evasweaving Says:

      Thank you, Fern. I like the challenge of trying something I haven’t done before and it’s really exciting to see how it turns out in the end.

      Eva

  2. Nancy Says:

    That is gorgeous! I first found summer and winter to look a bit busy with the halftones, but it sings in the Dukagang fabric that you just finished! I think I will try that! Thanks for posting.

    • evasweaving Says:

      Thank you, Nancy. If you would like the wif file let me know, I’d be happy to send it to you. I also posted it on Weavolution, so you can find it there too.
      Eva

  3. Astrid Says:

    Thanks for giving such a good presentation on S&W and the table runner and here on the chage to dukagang. I’m getting very interested in the technique.


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