“Fun With Advancing Twills” (My Article)

Members of study groups at Complex Weavers are often invited to submit articles to the Complex Weavers Journal.  As a member of the Fine Threads Study Group, I submitted an article about my study from last year and it was accepted!

Here are the contents of my article, hope you enjoy it:

Complex Weavers Journal, June 2010, issue #93

Fun With Advancing Twills

by Eva Stossel

Fine Threads Study Group

My fascination with advancing twills led to some interesting experiments using my weaving software, but I realized that it was necessary to narrow down the variables because the possibilities became overwhelming.  I decided to design different patterns by varying the tie-up only and keeping the threading and treadling constant.  Using an eight-end advancing point draw on 16 shafts and tromp-as-writ treadling, I was thrilled with the intricate and beautiful designs that were produced by different tie-ups.

To weave the samples for the Fine Threads Study Group, I used a tie-up that is a fancy twill pattern (#548 in Oelsner’s book).  Looking at the drawdown I thought this design would be great to use for weaving a fabric with an interesting and playful pattern when viewed close-up as well as at a distance.

I used cotton sewing thread doubled up for the warp and 20/2 cotton for the weft with a sett of 42 epi and approximately 45 ppi.  The longest float is five ends.  The piece was handwashed, steam ironed while still damp with an overall shrinkage of about 4%.

Looking at the finished fabric, I just love the way all those little squares and diamonds grow in and out of each other and that so many of them are unique in their appearance.

“Fun With Advancing Twills” Fabric

“Fun With Advancing Twills” Fabric (detail)

“Fun With Advancing Twills”  Draft


Inouye, Bonnie. Exploring Multishaft Design. Weavingdance Press. 2000.

Oelsner, G.H.  A Handbook of Weaves.  Dover Publications (republication of the original edition published by The Macmillan Company in 1915).  [this classic book is also available online for download in its entirety at handweaving.net]

van der Hoogt, Madelyn.  The Best of Weaver’s: Twill Thrills. XRX Inc. 2004.

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10 Comments on ““Fun With Advancing Twills” (My Article)”

  1. buyathread Says:

    Eva,your advancing twill piece is dazzling! The squares and diamonds seem to be moving, and the fine threads you used probably enhanced the effect. What skill and patience (not to mention great eyesight)you have! Thanks for sharing your accomplishment.


    • evasweaving Says:

      Thank you, Fern! You’re right, the fine threads studies do require a bit more patience and eyesight than some other weaves. It’s really rewarding to see a draft come alive when it’s actually woven.

      I really appreciate your friendship and you always say such nice things.


  2. buyathread Says:

    My pleasure, Eva.

    Btw, I forgot to mention that I like the new snippets on your home page very much : )

    • evasweaving Says:

      Glad you like them, Fern! They’re all new weavings I’ve done since I started my blog in February of last year.

  3. Helga Says:

    thank you for sharing your article!!!

  4. Judy Says:

    What an amazing piece! Thanks for sharing your article on a complex weave and it was definitely inspiring!

  5. 2crazy4books2 Says:

    Eva – These are divine! Twills are one of my most favorite weaves. Obviously your eyesight and manual dexterity is superior! Thanks for sharing the draft and photos. They are really quite inspirational. What are you going to use the fabric for?

    • evasweaving Says:

      Hi Janis, thank you so much! This fabric was cut up into 35 pieces and exchanged with the other members of the Fine Threads Study Group. Our coordinator, Lillian Whipple, sorts them out and we each get a package of samples in the mail, what a thrill that is each year! I also wove this pattern using a thicker, 5/2 pearl cotton yarn, and made a shawl but the fine detail is lost and is not as interesting. BTW, you’re my favorite bookseller on ebay.


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