Patterned Double Weave: Samples & Drafts

I was thinking about the loom-controlled, patterned double weave project I did last year and realized that I wanted to explore this subject further.  The way the two plain weave layers exchanged top and bottom areas with unclear edges was especially intriguing.

My plan was to start by designing different double weave tie-ups and then seeing what would happen when I tried different threadings and treadlings with each tie-up.  One way to design tie-ups is by cutting and pasting areas of the top and bottom layers.  I found the chapter on Double Weave in Bonnie Inouye‘s book, Exploring Multishaft Design, very helpful with this.  I found some more help in Alice Schlein‘s book, The Liftplan Connection (Designing for Dobby Looms With Photoshop and Photoshop Elements).  I was already familiar with Photoshop Elements, and even though the title sounded daunting at first, and I weave on a 16-shaft treadle loom, not on a dobby loom, I did find things in the book that I can use.  An easy and fun thing I can do now is to design double weave tie-ups that I can paste into my weaving software.

Below are images of a few of the samples I wove and the drafts I designed.  All the tie-ups were designed in Photoshop Elements, and to illustrate how a tie-up design appears in Photoshop Elements I included a screenshot of one in Sample 1.  Sample 4 is the culmination of my study and it’s a wider and longer fabric than the other samples because I might actually want to make something out of part of it and share the rest by cutting it up into samples for my Fine Threads Study group at Complex Weavers.

Sample 1:  To weave this sample I used 20/2 cotton doubled (2 strands together) with a sett of 40 e.p.i., sleyed 4 ends per dent in a 10 dent reed.  I washed and ironed all the samples.  Note that the threading and treadling is the same as in Sample 2, but the tie-ups are different.  I also included the tie-up design for this sample as it appears in Photoshop Elements.  The image of the woven sample shows a distant view and a close-up view of the same side.

Patterned Double Weave Sample 1

Patterned Double Weave Tie-Up for Sample 1 (designed with Photoshop Elements)

Patterned Double Weave Draft 1

Sample 2:  I used the same yarn and sett as in Sample 1.  The image of the sample shows a close-up view of one side and a distant view of the other side.

Patterned Double Weave Sample 2

Patterned Double Weave Draft 2

Sample 3:  For this sample I used 20/2 cotton again but this time single strands (not doubled up) and, therefore, with a closer sett of 56 e.p.i., sleyed 4 ends per dent in a 14 dent reed.  Note that the threading is the same as in Sample 4 but the treadling is slightly different and the tie-up is different.  The image of the woven sample shows a close-up view of one side and a distant view of the other side.  I really like the interesting edges around the diamond shapes, and I might weave something with this pattern using a thicker yarn to show off these pretty edges.

Patterned Double Weave Sample 3

Patterned Double Weave Draft 3

Sample 4:  I used the same yarn and sett as in Sample 3.  I chose this last pattern to weave a wider and longer fabric because it works well for playing around with all the color combinations.  Also, because there’s a lot of interaction between the two layers, there is a mottled appearance to the doughnut-like shapes that I really like.  The image of the fabric mostly shows parts of the front and back views of the main pattern and a close-up view as well.

Patterned Double Weave Fabric (Sample 4)

Patterned Double Weave Draft 4

I hope you enjoyed reading about my double weave adventure.  My related posts about patterned double weave are:  “Patterned Double Weave:  Two Projects” and “Patterned Double Weave Scarf + Twill Version.”

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14 Comments on “Patterned Double Weave: Samples & Drafts”

  1. buyathread Says:

    Eva, All your experiments are interesting, but multicolored samples 3 and 4 — especially 4 — are knockouts! Thanks for sharing the variations.

    You’re really making me a believer in 20/2 cotton : )


    • evasweaving Says:

      Thanks, Fern. I mostly use plain 20/2 cotton for experiments but I was surprised too at how lovely it can look.

      Did I ever tell you how much I admire your beautiful work and your success in the fashion world for so many years? You’re the best, Fern!


  2. Linda Adamson Says:

    Eva this is a fascinating study!! I was given Photoshop Elements for Christmas but have not explored it yet and this makes me want to dive it. I am also fascinated with doubleweave and hope to pursue it more. Thanks for sharing. Linda in IN

    • evasweaving Says:

      I’m glad you like it, Linda! I’ve had Photoshop Elements for a few years and only used it for photo editing up to now. Using it together with a weaving program is amazing. Thank you for your comment.

  3. These are amazing! I am afraid I am still a pencil and paper chart gal as I play around with my finnweave. I don’t even have Photoshop at this point…one of these days. I can see what a time saver it must be and fun too. Your color choices are gorgeous!

    • evasweaving Says:

      Thanks for stopping by, Laverne! You can do these designs with pencil and paper too even if it takes longer. That’s how I did all my drafting for most of my 30+ years of weaving. I love your work too and your blog is amazing.

  4. 2crazy4books2 Says:

    You are the most clever girl I know! Your weaving is truly awesome! I love doubleweave. The fabrics are stunning. Thanks for the reference on Schlein’s book. I haven’t seen it but am certainly going to get it. You don’t have a compu-dobby? janis

    • evasweaving Says:

      Hi Janis, thank you for commenting! No, I don’t have a compu-dobby. I’m still with my old 16h Macomber workhorse. An inventive friend of ours made me some strange looking treadle extenders that help lighten the weight when I lift a lot of harnesses and since I don’t do production weaving anymore it works out well for me.

  5. Judy Says:

    Hello Eva,

    I really love the samples that you wove, and how you explore the different drafts. Doubleweave is fun to play with! I have to say your sample #2 really appeals to me with the strong contrast and the overall pattern. Very nice!!

    • evasweaving Says:

      Thank you, Judy! I enjoy reading about your wonderful fiber adventures and your lovely work on your blog too!

  6. Bonnie Datta Says:

    Hi Eva. Your work is fabulous! The things you are doing with double weave are things I dream about doing when I get more shafts and a computer dobby. In particular, I want to do double-weave crackle to get the fine blends of shades from both the warp and the weft. Thanks for the inspiration to get serious about a new loom.


    • evasweaving Says:

      Hi Bonnie, I’m glad you’re inspired to pursue your weaving dream and wish for you to accomplish all that you are aiming for. Thank you for your comment.

  7. Laritza Says:

    Thank you! Excellent!

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